Hi eviltwinzzz
I just saw in one of your older postings that you were going to use PCB123. I use OrCAD but there is a place I use for prototype boards all the time that gives out a very good PCB CAD program now. After your first board they give you a code that lets you unlock it so you make Gerber files that you can send anywhere instead of being locked to PCB123.
The link is
http://www.4pcb.com/ and then go to "tips & Tools" in the top tool bar. Their boards are excellent and you can get 60 sq. in. for $33 each on 2 layer or $66 for 4 layer.
It's always best to check files with a program other then what you made them with. Here is a link to a place that gives out a good Gerber file viewer
http://www.lavenir.com/. Click on free downloads.
I also saw a little more about the project being a 12V input. Before you even think of using the lower cost automotive light and noise makers get your hands on some and measure the currents used to drive them. I think you'll be shocked by the high current they use. Standard light bulbs have an inrush current that can be 15 times their normal on current so your drivers would have to handle that. The power with an alternator in a car is not as much of a concern to the car makers as it is with your battery operated unit. On top of that you'll need more expensive parts to drive the high current loads. That might make good LEDs cost less then regular lights in the end.
Do a good tally of just what current every part uses before throwing the dice on your regulators, especially on thinking of linear regulators. A couple of hundred milliamps at 1.2V can add a lot of loss from 3.3V.
If you give me or point me to more info on your project I can maybe help with the stuff outside the Cyclone part because analog is what I like best.
Enjoy,
Al